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The most commonly used vitamins in the composition of cosmetics are vitamins C and E. They are able to make the skin more smooth, refresh its color and improve the condition of blood vessels. This is an excellent example of the interaction of medicine and cosmetology. Creams with vitamin C are better adapted to the needs of the skin of the modern woman, living in a megapolis.
Active Vitamin C has several important properties necessary for the skin that lost elasticity, is tired and looks dull. It is a powerful antioxidant that protects against free radical damage. This feature is especially useful for people living in big cities, where under the influence of air pollutants a huge number of extremely harmful particles are produced.
The main functions of vitamin C in cosmetics:
- Antioxidant protection. Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant. It effectively fights free radicals, slows down the process of premature ageing and reduces the signs of photo-aging.
- Sun protection. Increases protective properties of the skin and UV-radiation resistant. It enhances the effectiveness of sunscreen products. However the cream with vitamin C alone does not replace the SPF. It works in tandem with vitamin E.
- Anti-age. It regulates and stimulates collagen synthesis. It increases its stability. It supports elasticity and skin turgor. It prevents the appearance of wrinkles and reduces existing ones.
- Pigmentation. Blocks tyrosinase and melanin production. It prevents age-pigmentation. Effectively lightens existing pigment spots. Aligns the skin color. It gives shine to the skin.
- Acne. It reduces inflammation and irritation. Fights acne. It stimulates regeneration. Lightens post-acne.
Latest studies showed that 5% solution of sodium ascorbyl phosphate effectively treats acne.
- Moisturize. It strengthens the epidermal barrier. Reduces trans-epidermal water loss. It stimulates the synthesis of skin lipids (ceramides), which promote moisture retention in the skin.
- It stimulates the local immunity. Increases resistance to infections. Regulates the pH.
With a variety of useful properties, vitamin C has its own characteristics, due to which it may not suit all.
- It ay cause redness, tingling and itching.
Especially in high concentrations. Furthermore, Vitamin C immediately absorbs when applied to the skin. Therefore, in order to avoid unpleasant sensations begin to use cosmetics with vitamin C slowly and with low concentrations.
- Improper use can provoke breeding of free radicals in the skin.
According to a study Journal of Investigative Dermatology fatty derivatives of vitamin C – palmitate (ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbic acid-6-palmitate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate) may actively provoke the production of free radicals in the skin by exposure to UV-radiation Therefore, we recommend to use the products with the active form of vitamin C only at night, or in the absence of the direct sun exposure to the skin.